Travelling to Surf
Since childhood my only dream was to surf. Not living by any large bodies of water that contained waves it was a bit out of the question at the time. There was also the fact that my parents had seen too many movies with teenagers in bikinis and young men pledging their entire lives to surf the biggest waves. Employment never seemed to enter the lives of the main characters of these feature films.
Becoming a surfer requires a great deal of balance. In order to acquire this balance outside of the bathtub, I took up the art of skiing. I was quite able to justify this to my parents by describing how it was a perfect vehicle for exercise. It was this that got me on the slopes. I traveled through the interior United States skiing my life away. I remembered suddenly on a slope that would break my leg why I started skiing. I healed and headed for the west coast.
At first sight the ocean and its waves did not entirely excite me. Quite frankly it made me rethink my dream. After taking several lessons, I assured myself this was what I wanted to do and went out without an instructor. However lets back up from the waves. Selecting the proper surfboard is imperative for safety, catching waves and paddling. If you’re a beginner such as I was; you should have board that is longer and is wider.
With this flotation is easier to learn than if you attempt to begin on a short board, as the pros would use. One good reason to not use a short board will take you longer to learn how to surf. Remember that surfing is not a sport that you take a few lessons and will be able to compete in competitions. No. Surfing is a lifelong study especially as you take on larger and more dangerous waves.
I began my surfing career as such using the correct board and taking on smaller (actually real small) waves. One of the first things that I recognized in surfing was ones fitness level. Surfing requires a great deal of fitness. Having experience in boarding (which I didn’t) is quite helpful in your learning to surf. It will take no time at all to be up and running on a short board.
Having reached the intermediate level of surfing, it was time to change boards to match my experience level. I graduated to a short board. I also began watching my weight closer as your weight is indicative of your fitness, but requires you to remain on a long board. Most areas for surfing in the U.S generally have waves 1 to 4 feet. As experience will dictate I decided that following the waves by travelling was the answer. By this point my surfing had advanced and the waves of California were no longer a challenge.
My first stop was the pipeline In Oahu, Hawaii. This challenge held a personal spot in my heart. The pipeline gave birth to surfing. The pipeline is neither for beginners or intermediates. It is for the professionals. Many surfers are anxious to ride the pipeline, the perfect crest, and the heaviest waves. I lingered on Oahu and enjoyed watching the pros and moved on to my next destination where I was prepared to surf.
Bundoran Beach in Ireland offers the surfer some of the coldest waves to surf. How cold the water was didn’t deter me at all. Just a small jaunt from Dublin, the waters of the Atlantic produce waves that are green and shimmering. Astounded by the flat head rocks I moved on to see what else I could admire while on a board.
No surfer can resist the waves of the Gold Coast, Australia. Anyone who claims to be a surfer cannot resist the beaches, the solid walls of waves. Or the Superbank that is one of the more magnificent places to surf.
Having surfed my way to heaven, I returned home to report my adventures to my family (I was immediately shunned by my siblings).
Older now I look back at those days longingly. I find that most of my reminiscing is based on surfing.