Surfing Was Everything To Me
I loved surfing; I am afraid I might be out for a lifetime. I loved this sport ever since I was a child and my history in surfing is what I will to remember. Surfing was more of lifestyle to me than just a sport I will engage in once a week. I had arranged this lifestyle in a way that I would maximize my life around water. Surfing is a safe sport and is affordable for those who live near the ocean. But also, the vigorous and uncontrollable waves and obstacles are a threat to the lives of surfers.
Let me tell you a little story you will like about why I loved surfing so much. People who take surfing as a lifestyle leave near the ocean. They are not occasional visitors. Real estate and property near the ocean are very expensive, but if you manage to stay in such a rich geography for the better part of your life, it means that you are going to join the millionaire club too.
Surfers follow weaves.
Our competition can be done anywhere in the world where there will be good waves. Traversing the world in search of ocean waves to do what I do better is a gift that I am satisfied having. Sporting in the ocean is a powerful challenge that keeps on changing and that means more fun and more energy.
To me, fun in the ocean was unlimited until I was involved in a tragic accident two years ago. I got a lumbar sprain after hitting a colleague surfing board. Of course, the usual suspected Maverick surfing spot caused this. Mavericks is the second deadliest surfing spot in the world. My well-known friend Sion Milosky died here.
Even though we know the most dangerous surfing spots around the world, but that is where we get most fun. These spots are where we register accomplishment because they are a big challenge. By the way, it was not my first time surfing at Mavericks. I have been here several times for active and passive surfing.
I can hardly explain how the accident happened, but what I know is that I have been wheeled for two years. The story I hear from those who rescued me is that I had hit a crossing board, and I stayed underwater for a length of time. It was lethal. It is unusual for a professional surfer to hit a board, but these boards are considered triggered guns. You know what a triggered gun can do at the slightest cause of interaction. As professional surfers, we know the safety rules, and we have them at our finger tips. However, when surfing in most dangerous spots, anything can happen, and that is why they are called ‘most dangerous surfing spots in the world’.
What happened during the accident?
Mavericks surfing spot is located in the North of California. This spot is popular and attracts the largest number of surfers, both experienced and novices. During the time of the accidents, there were almost 100 surfers their board at the same time. We did not ignore the safety precaution because when we are many, it is when we know we are safe.
No one expects an accident involving a professional and experienced person like me, but it happened. The big intimidating wave sent my colleagues through my shoulders. Before he could land on water; his board hit me from the back, and my surfing turned upside down. The next time I felt conscious, I was in the hospital bed several days after the accident.
It is exactly 25 months since that fateful day. Even though I am healed and still do not think I am capable of coordinating self with the vigorous exercise in water. Life has a way of bringing everybody down. Even mighty giants do fall. This past regretful accident brought me down too. It is difficult for me to think that I am bidding this sports goodbye.
But sometimes, it is possible to compromise with situations. I have the opportunity and the friends who are willing to support me go back to surfing. I have not reconsidered going back to the ocean, and I do not think I need to, at least the probability of going back are very slim.